The French uphold the concept of connoisseurship; knowing and understanding the details, technique, or principles of an art and being competent to act as a critical judge.
Ladurée is simple and effective proof of this point. Here, in this little corner sweet shop, the confectioners have succeeded in turning a certain amount of egg white, flour, powdered sugar and one or two other substances into the highest and noblest mouthful that even an impoverished artist can afford at €1.50 each. A mouthful that even the most clueless judge of cuisine must attest worthy of appreciation. In fact the beauty here is that amidst a city of consummate luxury and sophistication any member of society can scale their way into this elite monde of delicacy heaven, and even enjoy a touch of pure gold leaf if desired.
They do have their Enarchy, their elite and fastidious rules at every level of society, but it seems the French still also hold closely the ethos that even the lowliest may, despite revolutions, recessions and rent, be free to eat cake too. For this we love them.
21 rue Bonaparte – 75006 Paris
